If you’ve read a climbing magazine or heard some “gaston” recommendations from other climbers, you might be wondering what that means. We heard this many times when I started climbing and it took a couple of climbers to explain what it is before we understood what it is.
A gaston when climbing is using your arms/palms to make an outward motion rather than pulling towards your body as usual to support your body. It is most commonly associated with the palms facing outward and the thumbs facing downward.
For example, if you fit your body between two handholds with the positive edge facing you, you may need to create tension by pushing the handrail rather than pulling it. To do this technique, you should bring your thumbs down with your fingertips pointing away from you.
The Gaston movement becomes more and more popular and necessary the more difficult the route, especially when it comes to bouldering. Because of this, climbers need to be more aware of what a Gaston is and train for it.
How to Identify a Gaston
Gastons are relatively easy to identify if you look at the “positive” edge of a mango. For example, if the protruding part of the handle (where you put your fingertips) is in front of you, it is likely a shade of gas.
If you see a climber with elbows wider than the hand in relation to the center of gravity, it is likely a Gaston.
If the movement causes you to move the hand down so that the thumbs point down, it is likely a Gaston.
If you press your thumb and palm against the handle and your fingers are resting on the outside of the handle without tension, it is likely a gas tone as well.
Why is his name Gaston?
The story goes that a French mountaineer named Gaston was photographed climbing. One of the images showed him doing this movement and since then other climbers have started calling it Tren de Gastón or El Gastón. Now, years later, it is known simply as Gaston, Gastoning, or Gaston Climbing.
When should you Gaston?
Gaston is a muscle-intensive climbing and movement technique known to draw energy. In this case, the ideal is to avoid it or to place the body in a position that allows pulling instead of pushing. However, there are some situations where the Gastons are unavoidable or just the best play.
If your weight and body position allow you to put most of the weight on your feet and only a gaston is used for balance until you can perform the next movement.
If the climb does not provide a way to maneuver the feet so that the next movement becomes a pulling movement, a gaston is the only way to get to the next movement.
When gas tone is the easiest and least energy consuming movement.
As you can see, a gaston is not the best way to expend your energy and you should avoid it if possible. However, some routes are built with gastones that are unavoidable or easier to pass than walking. If it’s unavoidable, do it.
However, since it can’t always be avoided, consider training for Gastons. You can be surprised and be better than you expected.
How to Avoid Gastons
Climbers often observe a climb, identify the predicted beta, and then perform or attempt to perform the predicted beta. However, climbing is one of those amazing sports that allows you to do things your way. If you’ve ever watched a climbing competition (especially bouldering), you’ll quickly find that everyone does rock climbing a little differently, and it often works. All this shows that the gaston effect can be avoided, although in most cases it is unavoidable.
To avoid a gaston by avoiding this movement or, more often, by laying your body to the side so that you can maintain a pulling position to complete this part of the ascent.
The first step in converting a gas tone into a pulling position is figuring out where your body needs to be to convert the movement into a pulling movement. For example, placing your right foot in a line under the handle while placing your left foot wide or tall should shift your body weight to the side of the handle so that you can pull the handle instead of pushing it.
The second step is to put your body in this position. Keep in mind what the next move is so that you can turn your body to the side that will help you reach the next grip more easily.
When you meet a Gaston, it is sometimes more difficult to get your body and feet in a more appropriate position than to perform the Gaston Move. In this case only Gaston.
What muscles are used in a gaston? climbing technique. The Gaston Move when climbing mainly uses the muscles of the shoulder, triceps, and chest.
If you want to strengthen your Gaston ability, build your shoulder, triceps and chest muscles. However, with any strength training, it is important to also practice the Gaston movement by finding gym climbs with Gaston in trouble.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs):
Why is it called a Gaston in climbing?
Gaston climbing is named as gaston technique because it is named after the French climber Gaston Rébuffat. In the book On Snow and Rock, Gaston shows a technique to climb off widths by pulling them apart, which is like pulling apart elevator doors.
What is mono in climbing?
MONO Abbreviation for mono doing. Pocket with room for one finger. A big crack in the dirt, too wide for a fist to jam in and too narrow to be a chimney. Clambering up a route without using any gear, and without needing any knowledge of the moves before starting.
What is the hardest route in climbing?
The hardest route of sport climb in the world at the moment is actually located in Hanshallaren Cave in Flatanger, Norway.
What is a Gaston in climbing?
In climbing, a gaston is a kind of grip which involves pushing a hold instead of pulling and is a way to use the center of the body and the feet to climb. To grab hold as a climber would turn his palm away from him, with the thumb pointing down and the elbow out, and generate friction against the hold by pressing out toward his elbow.