As every experienced climber knows, technique is the most important tool one can possess. A more advanced technique and better execution will make your climbs safer. In addition, having solid technique will allow you to perform a variety of different climbs more effectively. In addition, it can enable you to complete climbs that would otherwise be too difficult. To know about the basic technique of rock climbing, check out this article.
It takes time to learn the correct technique. The good news is that we have put together a guide to one of the most important ‘advanced’ techniques for rock climbing: deadpointing.
Despite being difficult to master, deadpointing is often done by beginners without them even realizing it.
Would you like to learn more about this powerful technique? Check it out below!
Table of Contents
What is Deadpointing (and where does its name come from?)
The technique of deadpointing refers to climbing on a rock wall in order to reach a new hold even in the face of gravity.
The unique aspect of deadpointing is that it’s done from what many may regard as a point of no return. Therefore, climbers must first be in a position such that if they lose their footing, they will quickly fall. Gravity pulls at the body in these cases, which makes it difficult to maintain the proper hold.
The deadpoint has been compared to throwing an object into the air. It has reached its deadpoint just before it falls from its peak height.
You may have also guessed that this is where deadpointing gets its name. You probably won’t live much longer if you don’t execute your deadpoint if you are climbing in the wild – at least not without an attentive belayer.
If you want to climb more challenging routes, you must master the deadpoint, even if you just climb at your local gym.
How Do Controlled Dynamic Moves Work in Deadpointing?
A controlled dynamic move results in a deadpoint. A part of the body must remain motionless while another part moves in a controlled manner in order for these oxymoronic moves to work.
Simple enough, right?
It’s better to say than to do.
In deadpointing, the hips are moved first, followed by the hands, not the feet. Climbers use deadpointing to regain comfortable holding while ascending a rock face.
Due to its nature, however, it requires a certain amount of skill to accomplish. Beginners, for example, struggle to simply attempt and execute this difficult move. They never need to, however, which is a good thing. Climbers must deadpoint only on difficult routes where full extension is required from them.
When Deadpointing, how should you use your hips?
When deadpointing, one moves their hips, not their feet.
When attempting to execute the deadpoint, this crucial step proves essential to a climber’s safety. A number of reasons may contribute to this.
The climber can maintain balance primarily by moving from the hips. The climber performs this move when already fully extended. A lack of balance can result from losing either of their foot or hand holds in this situation.
As a result, climbers must first move their hips to turn towards the wall. At the same time, they will reach a brief moment where they can now extend their bodies to reach the next hold.
As a result, climbers should always remember to execute a dynamic hip motion before and simultaneously with their reach.
How to Deadpoint
It can be difficult to master deadpointing, but once learned, climbers can appreciate its simplicity. To master deadpointing, follow these three steps:
1. Place your feet firmly
When you are moving your feet, make sure you aren’t moving them. Your goal is to keep them firmly rooted to whatever foothold you have.
Trying to move your feet can throw you off balance and put your life at risk. You should always keep your feet still when executing the Deadpoint.
2. Bring your hips in
The next step is to quickly turn your hips inward towards the rock face.
This will change your body’s position and center of gravity for a moment. Moreover, you’ll have a chance to reach for other holds rather than remaining stuck and stagnant on the rocks.
It’s important to remember that gravity will be pulling on your body from all directions before you perform the Deadpoint. You won’t have much room to combat this since you’re at full extension.
As you turn your hips inward, you’ll create a brief window of opportunity for making a grab for the next hold.
3. Hold on to the next hold
After you have repositioned your body, take advantage of this brief opportunity to take your next hold on the rocks.
You should be aware that steps two and three will overlap. Gravity will once again act on you after your body has returned to normal — assuming you didn’t fall.
This is why you should reach for your next hold when your body is facing the rock.
When to Deadpoint
Have you ever felt as if you were being stretched out in a particularly difficult game of Twister when climbing?
If so, you may be able to recall a time when you were fully extended and couldn’t make a leap to your next hold without destabilizing yourself. It is possible that you have been in situations where deadpointing is useful.
Basically, if you are at full extension and your only option is to drop, then use this deadpointing technique.
Although learning this powerful deadpoint technique takes time, it can prove quite useful on the rocks.
Try to spot all the dead points in this compilation!
