7 Ways To Set Up Top Rope Anchor (Sling, Static Rope, Webbing, Quickdraw)

An anchoring system for top ropes should be constructed securely. When a climber falls, having a solid anchor on the top rope can literally mean the difference between life and death. When we talk about anchors, we’re talking about the whole system: anchor points, protection gear, runners, carabiners, and climbing rope. 

There are many ways to set up a top rope anchor and this article discusses seven of them. Every one of them has its advantages and disadvantages. Understanding the limitations of each method is crucial when choosing one. 

Alternatively, temporary protection gear such as nuts, hexes, or cams can be used as anchor points. There will be no change in the set-up. 

An Overview of Ropes, Webbing, Cords, and Quick Draws

Ropes or webbing can be used to build an anchor. 

A couple of reasons make ropes preferable to webbings: 

• Webbings aren’t as strong as ropes. When setting up anchors near rock surfaces or edges where they may rub against the rocks, ropes are a wise choice. Since ropes have a protective sheath, they are less likely to be damaged or cut than webbing.
• Knots are easier to tie on ropes than on webbings. Knots that are tied in webbing are usually harder to adjust. The strands of the webbing can also twist and become messy.

However, webbings are lighter and less bulky than the ropes. 

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Different Types Of Ropes 

A static rope, static line, accessory cord, or cordelet is a rope that is used to set anchors. 

There are a few subtle differences, but in general they are similar.

Static Rope

Static ropes do not stretch and elongate under load like dynamic ropes. Because static ropes do not absorb impact during a fall, they are never used for climbing. Dynamic ropes should only be used by climbers.

You can, however, use them to set up an anchor for top-roping. Anchors are usually constructed using static ropes and static lines of 8mm to 10mm diameter.

Accessory Cord

The diameter of static ropes that are smaller than 8mm is referred to as an accessory cord.

Anchors are typically built with an accessory cord of 7mm to 8mm diameter. For anchors, these diameters offer a good strength-to-weight ratio. 

Cordelette

Any strand of rope or cord that is tied into a loop can be called a cordelette.

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Webbing

Webbing is constructed by weaving fabric into round flat strips or tubes. 

You can choose from two kinds of webbing – tubular webbing or flat webbing. Tubular webbing is only used for climbing. Typically, backpack straps have flat webbings. 

An anchor is typically constructed with 2.5 cm (1 in) wide tubular webbing. 

Runner/ Sling

Runners or slings can be formed by sewing or tying tubular webbings together.

Runners come in a variety of lengths:

1. Short runners: 30 cm/12 inches
2. Runners with a single length of 60 cm/ 24″
3. Runners with double-length: 120 cm / 48 in
4. The long runners must fit between 180 – 240 cm / 72 – 96 inches

Quickdraw

Two carabiners are attached to the ends of a sewn webbing to form a quickdraw. 

You can find quickdraws in a variety of lengths:

1.  4 – 5 in
2. 6.5 – 7 in
3. 24 in

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Materials Of Ropes, Cords And Webbings: Nylon Vs High Strength Polyethylene

We personally recommend using nylon ropes over polyethylene ropes such as Dyneema or Spectra. 

Polyethylene ropes are stronger and can be used for thinner anchor ropes. As a result, you will have a lighter and less bulky load to carry while climbing. 

Nevertheless, they have several disadvantages:

1. Their stretch is lower than nylon, and they don’t distribute weight as well between anchors as nylon does. 
2.   Especially when used to set up anchors with lots of knots and flexing, they do not last as long as nylon. 
3.  If a loaded rope runs over them, they can be severely damaged.
4. They are less frictional than nylon. Compared to nylon, you will need to double up on any knots you use on them. 
5.  They cost more than nylon.   

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Setting up anchors according to the SERENA Principle

An easy way to remember the principles to follow when building an anchor system is to use the acronym SERENEA. 

In order to be an anchor system, it must:

Solid: The anchor must have a solid component in every component.

Equalized: The load should be distributed equally between the anchor points. 

Redundant: The anchor should always contain redundant components. At a bare minimum, you need 2 solid, bombproof anchor points. Ideally, there should be at least three anchors.

Effective: The anchor system should remain as simple as possible. The process saves time and effort and minimizes errors. 

No Extension: If one of the anchor points fails, there shouldn’t be an abrupt shock load generated on the rest of the system. 

Anchor angle: When the anchor is set up, the angle formed by the ropes or webbings should not exceed 90 degrees. Angles smaller than 60 degrees are ideal. The greater the angle, the greater the load on each anchor point.

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How To Equalize Anchors

The SERENEA principle emphasizes that the anchors should be equalized.

Anchors can be equalized in two ways: static equalization and self-equalization. 

Static Equalization 

A static equalization is when the anchor is set up before it is equalized. The anchor will not be extended if one of the anchor points fails, so there is no risk of shock loading. 

If, however, the load direction differs from the original, the anchor cannot adjust. One of the anchor points will be shock-loaded if the fall is deviated.  

Self-equalization

An anchor that is self-equalizing can adjust to changes in loading direction. By doing this, all anchor points are less likely to get shock loaded during a fall in any direction.

Nevertheless, this also means that the anchor’s length may increase when the anchor points fail. There will be one remaining anchor point that is shock-loaded. 

However, complete equalization is rarely achieved in practice. There are many factors affecting how anchors perform. This includes the anchor locations, the anchor configurations, the climber’s route, etc. 

When constructing the anchor, it is essential to keep the SERENEA principles in mind. You must understand the performance of anchors in various scenarios.

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Method 1:

Runners/ Slings

Equipment You Require

• Four locking carabiners
• A pair of nylon runners/slings (60 cm/24 in)*

* This is only a general guide. Depending on your anchor positions, you may need a different length. 

Step By Step Guide To Set Up Top Rope Anchors With Slings

It is a static anchor for equalization.

The setup shown here is for two anchor points. Cordelette method (see Method #3 below) is easier to use when there are 3 or more anchor points.

1. Attach one locking carabiner to each anchor point. 
2. Attach one runner to each anchor point carabiner. Secure the carabiners. 
3. Connect the two runners at the bottom with a locking carabiner. Redundancy can be achieved by clipping in another locking carabiner in the opposite and opposite direction. 
4. Your climbing rope should be connected to the bottom locking carabiner(s). Secure your carabiner(s). 

Advantages:

• Simple and easy to set up.

Disadvantages:

• Except in ideal situations, this method seldom achieves equalization.

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Method 2:

Quickdraws

  For the same setup, quickdraws can also be used instead of runners for quick and short climbs.  

Equipment You Require

• Both ends of two 18 cm (7 inch) quickdraws have locking carabiners 

* This is only a general guide. Depending on your anchor positions, you may need a different length. 

Step By Step Guide To Set Up Top Rope Anchors With Quickdraws

It is a static anchor for equalization.

There are two anchor points in this setup. Cordelette method (see Method #3 below) is easier to use when there are 3 or more anchor points.

1. Each anchor point should be attached to a quickdraw. Make sure both carabiners are opposites. Secure the top carabiners.
2. You will connect your climbing rope to the 2 lower carabiners on the quickdraw. Secure the bottom carabiners.

You can check the setup here:

Advantages:

• This set up is simple and easy to set up.

Disadvantages:

• Except in ideal situations, this method seldom achieves equalization.

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Method 3:

Cordelette 

Equipment You Require

• Five locking carabiners 
• With five point five meters (18 feet) of 7mm nylon accessory cord*

* This is only a general guide. The length you need depends on where your anchors are located.
For this setup, you can also use static rope 8mm – 10mm in diameter. Since this is such a long length, we usually recommend avoiding tubular webbing. 

Step By Step Guide To Set Up Top Rope Anchors With The Help Of ACordelette

It is a static anchor for equalization.

Three anchor points are used in this setup. Cordelettes are typically set up with three anchor points. In the event of one anchor point failing, redundancy will be provided. 

1. Attach a locking carabiner to each of the three anchor points. 
2. Create a loop with the accessory cord using the Double Fisherman’s Knot. 
3. Clip the loop onto all three anchor point carabiners. Secure the carabiners.
4. Pull on the rope between the 3 anchor points between the 2 sections. Bring the top and bottom strands together until they meet. 
5. Make sure the Double Fisherman’s Knot isn’t pressing against any of the carabiners. If necessary, adjust.
6. All the rope strands should be tied into an Overhand Knot*. 
7. Snap a locking carabiner into the bight formed by the Overhand Knot. Tighten the knot with the carabiner. Redundancy can be achieved by clipping in another locking carabiner in the opposite and opposite direction. 
8. Connect the locking carabiner(s) to your climbing rope. Secure your carabiner(s). 

The Figure 8 Bight Knot can also be tied. After heavy loading, a Figure 8 On A Bight Knot is easier to untie. This method uses more rope, however. 

You can check out the setup here:

Advantages:

• Simpler to achieve static equalization than using runners or quickdraws. It is not necessary to adjust the individual lengths of the runners or quickdraws. 

Disadvantages:

• Except in ideal circumstances, this method does not achieve equalization.

Variation of the Cordelette with two anchor points

• Three anchor points provided redundancy in the anchor system. Alternatively, if you have two bombproof anchors, you can do a similar setup with those two anchor points. 

You can check out the setup here:

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Method 4:

Webolette 

Equipment You Require

• Five locking carabiners 
• Five point five meters (18 feet) of 7mm nylon accessory cord*

*It is intended as a guide only. Depending on where your anchors are, you may need a different length. 
*This setup can also be done with an 8mm – 10mm static rope. It is best to avoid tubular webbing when making a garment of this length.   

Step By Step Guide To Set Up Top Rope Anchors With The Help of A Webolette

It is a static anchor for equalization.

The setup here is for 3 anchor points. A webolette typically has three anchor points. In the event of one anchor point failing, redundancy will be provided. 

1. Attach a locking carabiner to each of the three anchor points. 
2. Both ends of the accessory cord should be tied with a Figure 8 on a Bight Knot. Both knots should have a long tail.
3. Attach 1 loop to the anchor point carabiner on the left. On the right, clip the other loop into the anchor point carabiner. Secure each carabiner.
4. The middle section of the rope should be clipped into the middle anchor point carabiner and then lock the carabiner. 
5. A rope in the shape of a W should hang from the anchor points. Pull the bottom 2 strands of the rope to equalize the length. 
6. All the rope strands should be tied into an Overhand Knot*. 
7. Lock the Overhand Knot with a carabiner. Tighten the knot with the carabiner. Redundancy can be achieved by clipping in another locking carabiner in the opposite and opposite direction. 
8. Connect the locking carabiner(s) to your climbing rope. Secure your carabiner(s). 

The Figure 8 Bight Knot can also be tied. After heavy loading, a Figure 8 On A Bight Knot is easier to untie. However, it consumes more rope. 

You can checkout the setup here :

Advantages:

• The rope used is less than that of a Cordelette. The shortening of the cord can be useful when your anchor points are far apart.
• Simpler way to equalize than by using runners. There is no need to adjust the length of the runners or quickdraws. 

Disadvantages

• Except in ideal circumstances, this method does not achieve equalization.

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Method 5:

Sliding X

Equipment You Require

• Four locking carabiners 
• Two meters (6.5 feet) 7mm nylon accessory cord* 

*The following is a general guide. The length you need depends on where your anchors are located. 
This setup can also be done with an 8mm – 10mm static rope. You can also use 1 in tubular webbing if the anchor is not in contact with rock surfaces.   

Step By Step Guide To Set Up Top Rope Anchors With The help of a Sliding X

In this case, we have a self-equalization anchor.

There are only two anchor points in this setup.

There are two Overhand Knots included in this method for the purpose of limiting the number of knots. When one of the anchor points fails, they prevent the anchor from extending an excessive amount. There is no longer a common practice of using Sliding  without limiter knots.

1. Attach a locking carabiner to each of the three anchor points. 
2. The Double Fisherman’s Knot can be used to tie the accessory cord into a loop. 
3. Clip one end of the loop to one of the anchor points. Secure the carabiner. 
4. Tie an Overhand Knot in the rope about a third of the way from the locked carabiner.
5. Tie another Overhand Knot about a third of the length from the first.
6. Attach the other end of the rope to the second anchor point. Secure the carabiner. 
7. The two Overhand Knots should be roughly the same height. Between the two Overhand Knots, there should be about 25cm (10 in) of rope. Changing the position of the knots is easy with Overhand Knots. 
8. Make sure the Double Fisherman’s Knot isn’t pressing against any of the carabiners.
9. In between the 2 Overhand Knots, twist one of the rope strands.
10. Through both strands of rope, clip a locking carabiner. Redundancy can be achieved by clipping in another locking carabiner in the opposite and opposite direction. 
11. Pass your climbing rope through the locking carabiner(s). Secure your carabiner(s). 

You can checkout the setup here:

Advantages:

• Climbers move in different directions during the climb, so the anchor automatically re-equalizes.

Disadvantages:

• When one of the anchor points fails, the two Overhand Knots act as limiters to prevent the anchor from becoming too long. Although there is still a bit of extension between the 2 Overhand Knots. There will still be some shock load on the remaining anchor. 

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Method 6:

Quad 

Equipment You Require

• Four locking carabiners
• Six meters of 7mm nylon accessory cord* 

*   The following is a general guide. Depending on your anchor positions, you may need a different length. 
This setup can also be done with an 8mm – 10mm static rope. It is best to avoid tubular webbing when making a garment of this length.   

Step By Step Guide To Set Up Top Rope Anchors With The Quad

It acts as a self-equalizing anchor.

There are only two anchor points in this setup. 

1. Attach one locking carabiner to each anchor point. 
2. Using a Double Fisherman’s Knot, make a loop in the accessory cord.
3. Take two rope strands and double them up to make four.
4. The loop should be inserted into the carabiner on one side. Secure the carabiner.
5. Tie an Overhand Knot in the rope about a third of the way from the locked carabiner.
6. Next, tie another Overhand Knot about a third of the way from the first.
7. You should place two Overhand Knots about the same height. Between the 2 Overhand Knots, there should be about 25 cm (10 in).
8. Make sure the Double Fisherman’s Knot isn’t pressing against any of the carabiners.
9. 3 strands of rope can be clipped with a locking carabiner. Your carabiner should not be clipped through all 4 strands. In such a case, you will lose the carabiner when one of the anchor points fails. 
10. Redundancy can be achieved by clipping in another locking carabiner in the opposite and opposite direction. 

You can checkout the setup here:

Pros

• The anchor self-equalizes when the climber moves in different directions during the climb. 

Cons

• This method uses more rope than the Sliding X and you will need a longer piece of rope.
• The 2 Overhand Knots act as limiters to prevent the anchor from a large extension if one anchor point fails. However, there is still some extension between the 2 Overhand Knots and the remaining anchor will still receive some shock load. 

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Method 7:

Equalette 

Equipment You Require

• Five locking carabiners
• Three meters (10 feet) of 7mm nylon accessory cord* 

* This is only a general guide. Depending on your anchor positions, you may need a different length. 

This setup can also be done with an 8mm – 10mm static rope. It is best to avoid tubular webbing when making a garment of this length.    

Step By Step Guide To Set Up Top Rope Anchors With The Help Of An Equalette

A self-equalization anchor.

Three anchor points are used in this setup. This setup cannot be done with only two anchor points. 

1. Attach a locking carabiner to each of the three anchor points. 
2. Using a Double Fisherman’s Knot, make a loop in the accessory cord.
3. Put a Clove Hitch on the rope and clip it into the anchor carabiner in the middle. Secure the carabiner.
4. After the first Clove Hitch, make another, leaving some slack. On another anchor point, clip in a second Clove Hitch. Secure the carabiner.
5. The strands from both anchor points should be taken. Tie an Overhand Knot about a third of the distance from the locked carabiners.
6. From the Overhand Knot, leave about 25 cm (10 in) of space and tie an Overhand Knot.
7. Attach the other end of the rope to the last anchor point carabiner. Secure the carabiner.
8. In between the 2 Overhand Knots, twist one of the rope strands.
9. Through both strands of rope, clip a locking carabiner. Redundancy can be achieved by clipping in another locking carabiner in the opposite and opposite direction. 
10. Connect the locking carabiner(s) to your climbing rope. Secure your carabiner(s). 

You can checkout the setup here:

Advantages:

• During a climb, the anchor self-equalizes when the climber moves in different directions and this is an improvement over the Cordelette. 
• Additionally, it requires fewer ropes than the Cordelette to set up. The shortening of the cord can be useful when your anchor points are far apart.

Disadvantages:

• When one of the anchor points fails, the two Overhand Knots act as limiters to prevent the anchor from becoming too long. Although there is still a bit of extension between the 2 Overhand Knots. There will still be some shock load on the remaining anchor. 

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs):