Most people spend years learning multi-pitch climbing before they can finally accomplish it. There are many routes where getting down and getting back up are almost equally challenging. In this guide, we will describe how to rappel off a multi-pitch route after conducting some research.
Rappelling from a multi-pitch requires either double-strand belays or single-strand belays with a blocking setup and by this way you can also retrieve your rope after each pitch, which will allow you to descend the next pitch. Rappelling from multi-pitch routes is going to be different for each individual based on the gear they have with them, the number of parties in their group, and the type of belay device they are using.
Rappelling multiple pitches is tricky, since you have to navigate long rappels with the equipment you have with you. While multi-pitch climbing, you often want to carry as little gear as possible to reduce weight. You cannot, however, leave any gear behind you on the wall. It is best to use either double-strand rappels or single-strand rappels with blocking cords so that the rope can be retrieved once you have descended.
Table of Contents
Multi Pitch Climbing: An Introduction
Those not familiar with multi-pitch climbing, it is a route that is too long to climb in a single piece of rope and therefore has to be divided into several sections, or ‘pitches’. After ascending a pitch to an anchor pair, the climber will secure themselves in those anchors, and lead their partner up the pitch. As they climb each successive pitch, they will eventually reach the top.
Multi-pitch climbing can be incredibly fun because of its height, challenge, and sheer amount of climbing you can do in a day. It is, however, challenging to descend from a multi-pitch route.
In some cases, this may not be possible. Neither all routes top out on a summit, nor are all summits accessible by hiking. It may be impossible to avoid rappelling down the route if this is the case. The following are some of the unique challenges of multi-pitch rappelling:
- The anchors may not be conveniently located: Not every route goes straight up. Syphilis Summits on Ha-Ling in Canmore, for example, contains large amounts of lateral movement. Although you can climb this way, it also makes rappeling difficult since you have to move both sideways and downwards.
- It’s time consuming and exhausting: Rappelling down a multipitch, even though it should be easy, can take a lot longer than hiking up. You must deal with more than just the rappel. You must find the anchors amidst a sea of rocks, tie yourself in, wait for your partner to clean all your gear, pull the rope, then do it all over again-sometimes ten or twenty times.
- The rappels can be long, and you may be limited by your gear: It would be ideal if you could do the rappels straight down to the next anchor, using double-rope rappels. Rock climbing, however, does not always take place under ideal conditions, and that is rarely the case.
When Should You Rappel a Multi-Pitch?
The above reasons make rappelling a multi-pitch not a recommended method of descent. Yet, there may be instances when it is necessary.
Rappelling a multi-pitch is recommended if:
- The route has no top-out, so rigging multiple rappels is the only way down
- Because of time constraints and/or difficulty of climbing, reaching the top is not possible. In this case, be certain that you will be able to safely perform rappels before you descend. Hold on and call for a rescue if you’re unsure whether the route can be lowered.
- It’s important to get down immediately: Ideally, you’d never find yourself in natures disaster, but that’s the nature of rock climbing, so if anything happens come down quickly
Rappelling a multi-pitch is not recommended if:
- There is other option: It is highly recommended that you hike down if you can. You’ll end up saving time and becoming much safer.
- You are told not to do so in your guidebooks: Don’t do something if the guidebook says not to.
- Climbers are below you: It can be a logistical nightmare, and you don’t want to be kicking rocks down people’s throats.
Double-Strand, Single-Rope Rappels
It is much easier if you are trying to descend a multi-pitch route with a double-strand rappel system.
The advantage of a double strand rappel is that it allows you to retrieve your rope without any hassle, blocking cords, or fear of getting your rope stuck in the anchors and once both you and your partner have finished the rappel, it is just a matter of untying the stopper knots, securing the rope so that you do not drop it, then you can set up your next rappel by pulling it through the anchor.
Yes, we know that this technique can sound familiar but rappelling is actually the most dangerous part of a climb, we are so prone to being careless because it is so easy. You’re physically exhausted after climbing all day and mentally exhausted after dealing with knots, anchors, clips, and rope.
These circumstances can easily cause you to forget to tie a stopper knot, turn off your prussik back-up, or fail to secure a rope when pulling. If you make any of these mistakes, you may be in for a fatal fall, particularly on multipitch routes where you are regularly hundreds of feet from the ground. Hence, it is imperative that you treat a double-strand rappel with all the respect it deserves; otherwise, you could be forced to descend the route very quickly.
The following is the process you would use to perform a rappel from a single pitch climb:
- Make sure you’ve tied a stopper knot into each end of the rope from the anchor.
- Position the middle point marker between the two anchors (something you should have done BEFORE starting the multi-pitch) by pulling the rope through the anchors.
- Ensure that you are safe when using your rappelling device.
- Prussik knots or similar protection may be added behind the rappel.
- Reach the next anchor set by performing the rappel.
- Make sure you are holding on to the anchors. Before you detach yourself from the rope, make sure your partner is attached to the rope. According to best practices, someone should be connected at all times.
- Before you pull the rope, ensure that one of you is securely attached to the rope once your partner descends.
- Don’t forget to undo the stopper knots! If you’re several hundred feet off the ground, getting your rope stuck in the anchors can be disastrous.
- Pull the rope and then repeat the same process.
Those are double-strand rappels! If conditions are ideal, it’s not too different from rappelling a single-pitch route, although safety precautions should be taken so that you do not drop the rope or get it stuck. It requires the same skills, only with much higher stakes and more adverse conditions.
However, the stuff in climbing rarely works out perfectly. The following two factors will prevent you from performing a double-strand rappel:
- Pitch lengths are too long: The longest rope will be 80 metres. If you fold this in half, you can reach 40 metres with a two-rope rappel. Two-rope rappels are not feasible on many multi-pitch routes, since they contain 60-meter pitches.
- Your gear doesn’t allow it: Two-rope rappels cannot be performed with every belay device. The Gri-Gri is only designed for use on single-strand rappels. Gri-gri’s are, for many, the preferred belay device, and we strongly recommend using one over a simpler device like an ATC when climbing long distances. We need a new solution because gri-gri’s can’t perform dual-strand rappels.
Therefore, in either of the scenarios above, double-strand rappels aren’t feasible. A blocked rappel is what is known in that case.
Single Strand Rappels and Blocking
An easy way to rappel is by using a single strand. Setting up a single-strand rappel so that you can retrieve your rope at the end is a little trickier, and you need to use a second piece of rope called a retrieval cord.
A retrieval cord consists of a secondary rope, often lighter and smaller than your main rope, which you hang from the opposite side of the anchors after tying it to the end of your rappel line. Once the rappel is completed, you can use the retrieval cord to pull the rappel line back through the anchors.
Note how, on the right side of the rappel anchors, the retrieval cord is knotted to the rappel line. In other words, once the rappel has been completed, you will be able to pull on the retrieval cord (right) and your rappel cord will be pulled cleanly through the anchors. Since the gear and knots are already on the left side of the anchors, nothing can get entangled here.
Let’s see how to do this type of rappelling::
- Pass your rappel line through the anchors
- Tie it to your retrieval cord (NOTE: You need either a Flat Overhand or a Figure-8 Pass Through to prevent the rappel line from passing through the anchors and sending you plummeting to the ground.)
- Connect yourself to the rope. Make sure you rig your rappel device up to the rappelling line; retrieval lines are often thinner and are not designed to support your body weight.
- As described above, perform the rappel together with your partner.
- In the rappel line, make sure the stopper knot is untied.
- Your harness should be connected to the retrieval cord.
- Retrieving the rappel line requires pulling on the retrieval cord until it runs through the rings and falls down. Once it falls, coil it back up and repeat the process.
Almost all of the rappelling you perform on a two-strand belay will be identical; it’s mostly in the set-up that you’ll need to learn new skills. There are a few things you should keep in mind since blocking rappels are not very common in other types of rappelling:
- You should pay attention to your knot: As I mentioned above, the knot that connects your rappel line to the retrieval cord is the most crucial part of the entire setup. Be careful that the knot doesn’t pull through under the weight of your body; if such a thing occurs, you might be making an unceremonious descent.
- Do not trust your retrieval cord: Once you have secured your rappel line into your anchors, the retrieval cord prevents you from releasing it. There is no other purpose for it. As your fellow climber said, it would be a backup, don’t set it up for two-strand belaying. You shouldn’t use it to secure yourself to an anchor. You can’t belay yourself up the pitch with it because your climbing rope got stuck therefore you should only use it for its specific intended purpose.
- Practice more and more: There are several dangers associated with multi pitch climbing, and most accidents happen on the rappels. Besides that, the stakes are higher than normal. Instead of being hundreds of feet below the ground, you’re hundreds of feet above it, which makes a fall almost certain to be fatal so we recommend you to practise more and more.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
How do you abseil multi pitch?
To abseil multi pitch tie an overhand knot half way along the sling and then clip the belay device into the sling loop nearest to your harness. Attach this to the rope and then add a screwgate carabiner and prusik loop to the belay loop around your harness, and use this to make a French prusik on the rope.
How do you make a multi pitch anchor?
To make a multi pitch anchor check out this video.
Can you multi pitch with 3 people?
Climbing multi pitch as a 3 is great as you always have some company and bring up the 2 second together allowing them some distance between them. There will likely be separate gears for the ropes, so every second will be clean.
What does multi pitch mean in climbing?
Those not familiar with multi-pitch climbing, it is a route that is too long to climb in a single piece of rope and therefore has to be divided into several sections, or ‘pitches’. After ascending a pitch to an anchor pair, the climber will secure themselves in those anchors, and lead their partner up the pitch. As they climb each successive pitch, they will eventually reach the top.
What is a pitch in free climbing?
As part of a climbing system, pitches consist of steep sections of routes that require ropes and belays. In free climbing, pitch is a method of classifying the difficulty of an ascent on a climbing route.
How long is a pitch in climbing?
A “pitch” is typically 60-70 meters long, and contains a rope of average length, which protects a route along its length.
How many carabiners are needed for climbing?
You will need at least 2 carabiners for climbing up a mountain.
