How To Belay From Above: Direct, Indirect And Redirect Method

An important skill for a climber is belaying from above.

Lead climbers need to belay up the climbers at the bottom who were belaying up the lead climber. Another name for this is belaying the second (i.e., the second climber).

Climbers may alternate becoming the lead climber when doing a multi-pitch climb, which is a long climb divided into sections. As a result, they will also belay each other. To know about the best belaying device, check out this article!

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Belaying From Above: 3 Methods

From the top, there are three methods of belaying.

1. The direct belay method is the one recommended by climbing schools today
2. The redirected belay method has been used for many years and is still commonly used today
3. Belaying indirect

There are three different methods of rigging the belay devices and rigging the belay.

Let’s talk about belay devices first before learning about each method. 

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What is the best belay device to use?

Belay devices can be classified into a few different types:

• An aperture belay device 
  • Slot plate
  • Tubular e.g. ATC
  • Figure 8
• Belay devices that self-brake
  • Aperture-style, for example. The ATC Guide (which is different from the ATC) and Reverso
  • Spring-loaded, for example. Grigri

Belay devices with apertures pass the rope through an opening for the loop to pass through.

A self-braking belay device uses an internal mechanism to stop on the ropes in case of a fall.

With a self-braking device, you can do a direct belay, but not with an aperture device.

A self-braking belay device or an aperture belay device can be used for redirected or indirect belaying. 

We’ve listed each of these belay devices’ advantages and disadvantages below:

	Advantages	Disadvantages
Aperture devices	The climbers are lowered easily.	– The belay device does not prevent a fall. This relies entirely on the belayer’s brake hand. Belayers are more tired when this happens. – In the event of an accident involving a belayer losing consciousness, the belay fails.  – As a belayer, you must completely rely on your strength in order to lower the climber. Aperture-style self-braking devices– The belay device helps to stop a fall and this is less tiring on the belayer. – If the belayer loses consciousness in an accident and the belaying device can still brake a fall.	Since the belay device auto-locks in one direction, it becomes really difficult to lower the climber.
Spring-loaded self-braking devices	– The belay device helps toprevent from falling. This is less tiring on the belayer. – In the event of an accident, the device can still break a fall if the belayer is unconscious. – The belay device has a rope release mechanism, so the climber can be lowered smoothly and easily.	Costly compared to other devices used for belaying.

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A Belay Device’s Anatomy 

Belay device frame: The main body of the device. There is a regular and a high-friction side to an aperture-style self-braking belay device. Braking friction is increased by grooves on the high-friction side. 

Slots for ropes: These are the openings in belay devices that allow the rope to be passed through.

A metal cable is connected to the frame by this loop. This can be observed on tubular aperture belay devices and aperture-style self-braking belay devices. 

Attachment point: This is where the belay device is attached to the anchor point for a direct belay. This is only evident on aperture-style self-braking belay devices.

Release hole: This is an opening for inserting a carabiner to lower the climber. This is only visible on aperture-style self-braking belay devices.

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Method 1: Belaying From Above Using A Direct Belay

When the belay anchor is directly attached to the belay device, the direct belay method is used. This device is not directly connected to the belayer. 

Many climbing schools recommend this method today.

Using An Aperture-style Self-braking Belay Device: A Step-By-Step Guide 

1. Use a Figure 8 Follow Through Knot to attach the rope to your harness‘s belay loop.
2. Attach a locking carabiner to the belay anchor point. 
3. With a clove hitch, secure yourself to the locking carabiner. Secure the carabiner. Be sure that there is enough room for movement around you. 
4. A large amount of slack will be present in the rope between the anchor point and the climber. Make a pile of rope near your feet to collect this excess. Make sure there is no slack in the rope. The belay device is set up here. 
5. Through the attachment point on the belay device, clip a locking carabiner. 
6. Attach the locking carabiner to the belay anchor. Secure the carabiner.
7. Make a bight on the strand of the rope that goes to the climber. 
8. Ensure that the end of the rope that goes to the climber is on top of the bight and pass the rope through any one of the rope slots on the belay device.
9. Another locking carabiner will do. Ideally, this should be an oval-shaped carabiner. The rope will be able to run more freely. You will need to attach the carabiner to the belay device via a bight of rope and cable. Secure the carabiner. Make sure the rope runs over the spine of the carabiner and not the gate. 
10. Bring the rope up to the climber. Self-braking belay devices should lock onto the rope. If you are able to pull the rope easily on the climber’s end, you have inserted the rope wrongly into the belay device.
11. Belaying begins with your brake hand (usually your dominant hand) holding the end of the rope that’s not leading to the climber and as you hold the climber’s strand , your other hand should be holding the end that leads to the climber.  
12. The brake hand should be high and close to the belay device. There will be a lower hand on the other side. 
13. As the climber ascends, pull the brake strand away from the belay device to take in the slack on the rope. Your other hand will be pulled close to the belay device as a result of this motion. 
14. Pull the climber’s strand back down by sliding your other hand instead of releasing the rope. In this hand, hold the climber’s and brake strands. 
15. Slide your brake hand up the rope close to the belay device without releasing the rope. In your other hand, release the brake strand of the rope.
16. Continue belaying by repeating steps 13-15.
17. No matter what kind of self-braking device you’re using, you should always keep a hand on the rope. 

The following video shows how to do a direct belay using an aperture-style self-braking belay device (the ATC Guide is used here):

This close-up shows how to do a direct belay using a self-braking aperture belay device (the Petzl Reverso):

This video shows how to do a direct belay using a spring-loaded self-braking belay device (the Grigri is used here):

Advantages Of Using The Direct Belay Method

• There is no direct connection between the belayer and climber. There is more freedom for the belay. It is also easier for the belayer to get out of the belay in an emergency.
• Utilizes a smaller force (1.1) on the anchor than with a redirect belay (2:1).
• The belayer can belay two climbers at the same time. 

Disadvantages Of Using The Direct Belay Method

• The belay method used here differs from how it is done when the belayer is below the climber. Belayers will need to become familiar with this method. 

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Method 2: Belaying From Above Using A Redirected Belay 

The belay device is attached to the belayer’s harness using the redirected belay method. Climber’s rope runs to the anchor point and belayer’s rope runs to the anchor point. 

Climbers have used this method for many years and it is still widely used today.

Using An Aperture-style Self-braking Belay Device: A Step-By-Step Guide 

1. Use a Figure 8 Follow Through Knot to attach the rope to your harness‘s belay loop.
2. Secure the belay anchor with a locking carabiner. 
3. Utilize a clove hitch to secure yourself into the locking carabiner. Secure the carabiner and make sure you have enough room to move. 
4. From the anchor point to your climber, there will be quite a bit of slack in the rope. Make a pile of rope near your feet to collect this excess and also make sure there is no slack in the rope. You set up your belay device here. 
5. Attach a locking carabiner to the belay loop of your harness.
6. Make a bight on the strand of the rope that goes to the climber. 
7. Belay devices have multiple rope slots through which you can thread the rope bight.
8. Attach your locking carabiner to the harness by clipping it to the cable of the belay device and the bight of rope. Secure the carabiner.
9. Bring the rope up to the climber. Self-braking belay devices should lock onto the rope. You have inserted the rope wrongly into the belay device if you can easily pull the rope on the climber’s end.
10. Attach a locking carabiner to the belay anchor point. 
11. Clip the end of the rope that’s going to the climber into this locking carabiner. Secure the carabiner.
12. Belaying begins with your brake hand holding the end of the rope that’s not leading to the climber and the brake hand pulls the brake strand towards your hips in the brake position. 
13. As you hold the climber’s strand , your other hand should be holding the end that leads to the climber. It is important to not hold onto the rope between the belay device and anchor point with your hand. A fall from the climber may cause you to become tangled in the anchor point and injure your hand. 
14. As the climber ascends, you tighten the rope by pulling on the brake strand with your brake hand. Your other hand will be pulled toward the anchor point if you do this motion near the anchor point. 
15. After the slack has been taken in, return your brake hand to the brake position. 
16. Slide your other hand up the climber’s strand towards the anchor without releasing the rope. 
17. Repeat steps 14 to 16 to continue the belay.
18. Keep your brake hand on the rope even when using a self-braking belay device. 

A self-braking belay device is used here to show how to do a redirected belay (using the ATC Guide):

Please watch from 0:00 until 2:23

Advantages Of Using The Redirected Belay Method

• The belay method used here is similar to the belay method used when the belayer is below the climber. Beginners find it easier to learn. 

Disadvantages Of Using The Redirected Belay Method

• In comparison to a direct belay (1:1), this applies more force to the anchor (2:1). The anchor is more likely to fail as a result. 
• The belayer can be pulled towards the anchor when the climber falls. Belaying might be affected by this.
• The belayer has a harder time getting off the belay in an emergency. 

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Method 3: Belaying From Above Using An Indirect Belay

In indirect belaying, the belay device is attached to the belayer’s harness. Climbers’ ropes run directly from them to belayers. The belayer is attached to the anchor point. 

Using An Aperture-style Self-braking Belay Device: A Step-By-Step Guide

1. Use a Figure 8 Follow Through Knot to attach the rope to your harness’s belay loop.
2. Attach a locking carabiner to the belay anchor point. 
3. With a clove hitch, secure yourself to the locking carabiner. Secure the carabiner. In contrast to the previous two methods, you should be tied in close to the anchor. You should be held securely in place by the anchor when the climber pulls on you. 
4. From the anchor point to your climber, there will be quite a bit of slack in the rope. Make a pile of rope near your feet to collect this excess and also make sure there is no slack in the rope. The belay device is set up here. 
5. Attach a locking carabiner to the belay loop of your harness.
6. Take the strand of rope that will be used by the climber, and make a bight. 
7. Belay devices have multiple rope slots through which you can thread the rope bight.
8. Clip the locking carabiner on your harness through the bend of rope and the cable on the belay device. Secure the carabiner.
9. Bring the rope up to the climber. Self-braking belay devices should lock onto the rope. You have inserted the rope wrongly into the belay device if you can easily pull the rope on the climber’s end.
10. The climber’s weight hangs directly on the belayer, which makes it easy for him to lose his balance during a fall. When doing an indirect belay, the belayer should sit down.
11. Ensure that the anchor point, belay device, and climber are all on the same side of your body and it should not run between your legs or cross from one side of your body to the other. If the climber falls, the rope or belay device may dig into them or pinch their skin.
12. Belaying begins with your brake hand (usually your dominant hand) holding the end of the rope that’s not leading to the climber and you will be pulling the brake strand toward your hips as you are in the brake position. 
13. Your other hand will be holding onto the end that leads to the climber.
14. You take in slack on the rope by pulling on the brake strand with your brake hand as the climber ascends. With this motion, your other hand will be pulled close to the belay device. 
15. After the slack has been taken in, return your brake hand to the brake position. 
16. Then, with your other hand, slide down the climber’s strand to the climber without releasing the rope.
17. Repeat steps 14 to 16 to continue the belay.to 16.
18. Keep your brake hand on the rope even when using a self-braking belay device. 

An indirect belay can be seen here using an ATC device (here the ATC is being used):

Advantages Of Using The Indirect Belay Method

• The belay method used here is similar to the belay method used when the belayer is below the climber. Beginners find it easier to learn. 
• As compared to the redirect belay (2:1), it applies less force to the anchor (1:1).

Disadvantages Of Using The Indirect Belay Method

• For better stability, the belayer should sit down while belaying.
• Belayers always support the climber’s weight directly. It can be uncomfortable. 
• In an emergency, a belayer cannot come off the belay. 

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Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs):