GriGri vs ATC: Which One Should You Be Using?

Rock climbing was revolutionized in the 1990s with the introduction of the GriGri.

The ability of GriGris to automatically lock and protect climbers in the event of a fall has made it one of the safest options available.

You may have noticed that rock climbers now purchase this product in large numbers.

There are several reasons for this: the autolocking abilities of the GriGri leave less room for chance. The added protection makes the GriGri worth the investment for many, but others still prefer to use an ATC.

What should you pick?

This debate pits innovation against tried-and-true methods, and it lacks a clear winner at the same time.

Exactly how?

Here’s how it works.

In the following sections, we will tell you how to decide between these two excellent devices.

It must be noted that the most important consideration is how comfortable you are with your belaying device.

Which One Is Right for You?

If you are just beginning rock climbing and do not already have a preference, you may choose to learn one or the other. You can use the information contained in this article to help you make the best decision for your safety.

When you have extensive experience with one or the other of these two types of equipment, it can be more difficult to decide.

Let’s be honest here.

ATC users are sometimes criticized by those who use GriGris.

They say those who use ATCs put themselves at unnecessary risk by choosing devices that do not automatically lock.

A large section of the GriGri camp is concerned that human error could put their climbers’ lives in danger.

Truth be told, it’s not quite as black and white as that.

Anyone who climbs will tell you it’s much more dangerous to use equipment you’re not familiar with.

A good example: if you are familiar with using an ATC and not a GriGri, you shouldn’t attempt your next climb using one. It’s just not safe.

GriGri’s updated technology may help reduce the likelihood of human error in some ways, but it cannot compensate for your lack of experience.

GriGri doesn’t solve everything, and most people don’t want to hear that.

You can’t magically fix incompetence with it.

Rather, it can reduce the likelihood of accidents and prevent them if used by those who are familiar with it.

Thus, they make great equipment for those wanting to learn; however, forcing a person to belay with a GriGri when he does not have the proper understanding or training can prove deadly.

Keeping this in mind, one would expect to be safest when using only the device they’re most comfortable with when belaying.

It’s likely that ATC users will rejoice at this news, and that’s fine.

However, it’s important to understand that we are not pushing any of the alternatives over the others.

There are times when each is best suited to a particular role, and it is important to know this when choosing your belaying device.

In fact, you may want to familiarize yourself with both so that you can get the most out of your climbing experience.

In the end, what matters most is how comfortable and knowledgeable you are with a particular piece of equipment

So, let’s take a closer look at how these two devices perform under different conditions to help you decide which one is right for you.

ATC and GriGri use indoors versus outdoors

Your decision should be influenced by whether you intend to use the device indoors or outdoors.

The quality and safety of these devices are almost identical when used indoors, but if you plan to climb outside, one has a clear advantage.

They both provide belayers with the functionality they need to keep climbers safe when climbing indoors.

On the other hand, the GriGri’s autolocking feature makes it more suitable for outdoor use.

There aren’t many people who can readily agree with this statement.

Why?

Since ATCs don’t have autolocking features, they weigh less than GriGris.

The weight of those climbing can also be a problem for those involved in rock climbing.

ATCs, for example, may be preferred by mountain climbers due to their lighter weight. As a result, they can navigate and move for longer periods without feeling fatigued.

Nevertheless, it’s important to remember what is sacrificed in order to achieve this lighter weight: safety.

Although both devices are reasonably safe in the hands of skilled belayers, a head-to-head comparison of the two devices using competent belayers will show that GriGris can protect climbers better.

It is especially important if you are climbing outdoors.

It is likely that you will need the added security the autolocking feature offers.

Let’s face it: everyone gets distracted from time to time.

For beginner rock climbers, this can be even more challenging. As a safety precaution, it would be wise to have a safety net in case the belayer screws up.

A GriGri will not guarantee your safety, but its added layers of protection can do more to keep you from harm if an emergency arises.

What is the significance of this?

If you climb outside, you will face harsher conditions than if you climb indoors. You also have greater distractions, and the thrill of climbing outside can make you feel more anxious.

You may experience all of these issues at once, making your climb more hazardous than it need be.

A GriGri will let you climb with added peace of mind that, even if you fall, you’re not doomed.

Additionally, this feature can ensure that your belayers do not have to do as much work. As a result, they will be able to stay more focused and energized.

All of this indicates that GriGris are better suited for outdoor use.

However, if you’re looking for a lightweight climb, ATCs are your best bet. In order to have lighter gear, remember that you are sacrificing your safety.

Last but not least, the GriGri might be more versatile in terms of what types of climbs you’re able to do safely.

The extra security of the GriGri can make it better for doing things like projecting, lead climbing, sport climbing, and route-setting, even though there isn’t a reason for the ATC to limit your climbing.

In which case do you think you have the edge?

A Grigri.

Price and Variety

There is no contest between these two products when it comes to variety.

They both have two main models, which means that customers do not have a lot of options and the good news is that all four models provide solid reliability and can be used safely for climbing.

Let’s take a look at the different models available for each.

• GriGris actually comes in two form one of the original GriGri and the later GriGri 2. Over the original model, the GriGri 2 features several improvements. Because it is smaller and lighter, climbers can make the climbs they need much more easily.

Therefore the GriGri 2 has been shown to be up to 25% smaller and 20% lighter than its predecessor.

Furthermore, it’s costlier.

Current prices of the GriGri 2 range from about $80 to $120 (€70 to €105). If you want to get the most out of your belaying device, it’s worth the extra price.

• ATCs come in two main varieties as well. In comparison to GriGri and GriGri 2, the ATC-XP and ATC-Guide have one main advantage.

You probably know that both devices only cost around $20 (€17.5) if you’ve looked into them.

There are differences between the two products. For example, the Guide incorporates an extra loop that allows for belaying from the anchor while in an autoblock setup. Furthermore, it is designed to work best with ropes that are thicker-while the XP is more effective with ropes that are thinner.

If you decide to use the ATC or GriGri, you have a number of good alternatives to choose from.

If you’re on a budget, you’ll probably prefer the ATC, but it does come at a price mainly because the GriGri provides a safer autolock system.

In which case do you think you have the edge?

The vote is tied.

ATC versus GriGri in terms of safety

The GriGri is without a doubt the safer option.

Here’s how to look at it. Would you prefer your belayer to use a device that would protect him if he got smashed in the head by an unexpected falling object.

Our initial thoughts were along those lines.

GriGri’s assisted braking system protects climbers from serious injury in case of a sudden or unexpected fall.

No matter how good your belayer is, he cannot always protect himself in the event of an accident. Due to this, you need secondary support in the event of an accident.

Consequently, belayers must remain attentive at all times because of the ATC. If a rock hits your belayer in the head, you should be prepared for a sharp fall. The ATC has the most obvious downside, but it is a huge one.

If you’ve ever fallen, you know this.

In which case do you think you have the edge?

The GriGri.

Beginners’ choice

When you begin climbing, whether in a gym or outdoors, it is important to learn the proper technique to ensure a safe and enjoyable experience.

Thus, the ATC is a better option for beginners. There is probably more manual work involved, but that only proves my point. When you are just getting started, you shouldn’t take any shortcuts. You never know when the thing you missed will come back to haunt you.

In this case, we are discussing the assisted braking system on the GriGri. If you use the GriGri to learn, you might get too comfortable. When you are out climbing one day, you do not have access to such conveniences.

How will you respond?

There’s a good chance you’ll find yourself in a difficult situation. If you ask me, being injured in an accident due to not knowing the proper belaying system isn’t exactly the best time.

Using the ATC, however, you won’t have access to this feature. Therefore, you will have to work closely with the belayer at all times. Communication is key in this case. After you are comfortable with this method, you can consider climbing with more technological options.

Regardless of your approach, you should always work with someone who knows how to use your current equipment and a GriGri might seem safer than a traditional ATC device, but that’s only the case if your belayer is familiar with the system.

Additionally, studies have shown that the ATC offers a better catch. As a result, you will not experience any sudden and jerky falls with ATC. However, the GriGri’s assisted brake system offers a shockingly higher fall, which may put beginners off.

In summary, the ATC is the better system for beginners, even if it’s only because it’s harder to navigate than the other. Our belief is further supported by the fact that the ATC is the less intimidating of the two in the event of a sudden fall. Furthermore, proper use of the ATC enhances good belaying habits and allows users to become familiar with rock climbing.

In which case do you think you have the edge?

The ATC.

This is the best choice for advanced climbers:

GriGri is the better choice for advanced climbers familiar with both systems.

Why?

Not only is it safer than the other option, as we discussed, but it also has more uses. In the gym, the ATC performs well. However, when doing prolonged or frequent lead climbing, it’s not as suitable as the GriGri. Both systems are capable of multi-pitch climbing, but the ATC is superior in certain aspects, such as route setting, simul climbing, and projecting.

As a result, advanced climbers are free to perform more daring climbs. If both your belayer and your system are top-notch, scaling a difficult wall is much easier.

It isn’t to say that ATC isn’t top-notch items; just that they don’t do as much.

When your belaying device doesn’t provide as many climbing options as the GriGri, and doesn’t keep you as protected, it’s easy to understand why the GriGri has become so popular.

In which case do you think you have the edge?

The GriGri.

The best choice for belayers

The choice here is obvious, as it is with the other items on this list.

As a result, one requires the belayer to be on guard in case of sudden or unexpected falls, whereas the other does not.

While it is certainly the case that the belayer should always be on guard, GriGri allows the belayer to take a bit of a break. The belayer does not have to do a lot of legwork while the climber hangs with the GriGri. This will be done by the cam.

ATC, however, requires the belayer to provide tension. Not only does this make the job harder and more stressful, but it also makes it riskier. You can ask any belayer who has been doing most of the work on an extensive climb.

Exhaustion is inevitable.

When your belayer becomes fatigued, you must have a backup system in place and as a result of the GriGri, the belayer experiences far less stress, and this is beneficial on two counts. Your belayer cannot climb extensive distances if too fatigued, not only for your own safety but also for your climb.

Due to these reasons, it makes sense to choose the GriGri as the best option for belayers. It shouldn’t be an affront to anyone’s abilities or pride to say that a little extra security is always a good thing, even if some belayers take offense.

In which case do you think you have the edge?

The GriGri.

ATC vs. GriGri in terms of comfort

Although it may not seem like much, comfort is an important factor for many rock climbers and you certainly don’t want to climb up a rock wall if you’re uncomfortable—if you know what I mean.

The GriGri and the ATC need to be compared in this regard.

Because it’s lighter, the ATC is the device of choice for many alpine climbers. In addition to weight, are there any other factors working in the ATC’s favor?

As it turns out, the two devices are about equal. Climbers, for instance, mention that while the GriGri offers sometimes harder falls, hanging is much more comfortable.

Furthermore, you can pause during your climb with a GriGri. With GriGri, you can take a small break while you are route setting. In addition to you, your belayer can relax a bit, as well.

A GriGri is certainly more convenient (and comfortable) in these respects. Nevertheless, the ATC’s lightweight and soft falls cannot be ignored.

We decided to tie the two products together for this reason. The GriGri is my preference (as are most lead climbers), however, it is up to the individual to determine which device is more comfortable for him.

In which case do you think you have the edge?

It’s a Tie.

The Bottom Line

GriGri and ATC are both established belaying devices that every rock climber should know about.

As a result, serious rock climbers are bound to have a variety of systems to choose from. As a result, we’ve decided to answer the age-old debate of which device is better for rock climbing and explain why.

We examined various components of the two devices in order to consider the pros and cons of each. In general, we discovered that although the GriGri performed better overall (due to its higher weight capacity and beginner-friendly nature), the ATC had specific advantages in certain areas.

There are a variety of reasons for this. In the first place, it’s safer. Safety is always the number one concern when climbing. It is for this reason alone that the GriGri should be considered the device of choice for serious rock climbers.

GriGri’s other advantages include superior outdoor performance as well as ease of use by belayers.

Nevertheless, the decision of choosing a device that is right for an individual lies with him, and trust me it doesn’t matter which system looks better on paper, it really depends on what you and your belayer are most comfortable with

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