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    Home»Climbing»Figure 8 Knot: 6 Variations And Their Uses For Climbing

    Figure 8 Knot: 6 Variations And Their Uses For Climbing

    By Sneha Saha
    AdobeStock 298684868 | Figure 8 Knot: 6 Variations And Their Uses For Climbing
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    One of the first knots that every climber learns is the Figure 8 Knot. It can be tied easily and be used in many situations. A variety of Figure 8 Knot variations have developed from the simple Figure 8 Knot. The following sections discuss the benefits and drawbacks of the 6 variations. Step-by-step guides are also available so that you can learn how to tie these knots.  

    Contents
    1. The Basics Of Ropes And Knots
    2. Figure 8 Knot Variations & Applications
    3. Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs):

    The Basics Of Ropes And Knots

    mqdefault | Figure 8 Knot: 6 Variations And Their Uses For Climbing

    Before we get started, let’s go over some knot and rope terminology. 

    Standing end: The standing end of a rope is the end that is not tied with a knot.

    Rope working ends: Those ends of the rope which are used to tie knots are termed working ends. 

    Tail end: The tail end is the end of the rope closest to the working end. 

    Bight: A bight is the result of bending the rope. 

    Loop: The loop formed by the crossing of two rope strands on a bend.

    A book of knots written in 1944 by Clifford Warren Ashley is called the Ashley Book of Knots (ABOK). There are more than 3,000 illustrations and detailed explanations of knots in the book. There are few books that provide a comprehensive account of knots. An ABOK number is often provided in articles and resources about knots. Using this method, readers can check the encyclopedia entry for the related subject. 

    1280px AshleyBook | Figure 8 Knot: 6 Variations And Their Uses For Climbing
    promoknotsjpg | Figure 8 Knot: 6 Variations And Their Uses For Climbing

    Dressing a knot: Knots are usually “dressed” after tying and when you dress a knot, you cross or uncross the rope’s strands. As a result, the ropes become stronger and do not get jammed or twisted during use. 


    Figure 8 Knot Variations & Applications

    Here is a quick comparison of how various knots look.

    You can find these images at the wonderful online resource Animated Knots. The following link will let you see their animated illustration.

    037 figure 8 variations 1024x579 1 | Figure 8 Knot: 6 Variations And Their Uses For Climbing
    promoknotsjpg | Figure 8 Knot: 6 Variations And Their Uses For Climbing

    Knot in Figure 8 (ABOK #420, #520, #570)

    All other Figure 8 knot variations are derived from this knot.

    Names Alternatives 

    • Figure of 8 Knot
    • Flemish Knot
    • Savoy Knot

    Figure 8 Knot Uses 

    • Figure 8 Knots are stopper knots. The rope is prevented from sliding through an opening such as a carabiner or belay device. To know more about stopper knots, check out this article!
    • This knot is also used at the end of other knots to prevent them from unraveling.

    An analysis of the advantages and disadvantages of a figure 8 knot 

    AdvantagesDisadvantages
    – One of the easiest knots to tie. 
    – Untie easily, even after being loaded heavily.
    In comparison to other stopper knots, this one is smaller. 

    The Alternatives To The Figure Eight Knot

    • Double Overhand Stopper Knot (ABOK #516): This is a larger stopper knot. 

    How To Tie A Figure 8 Knot: A Step By Step Guide

    1. Cross the working end of the rope over the standing end to form a loop.
    2. The tail end of the rope should be brought back under the standing end and back up on the other side.
    3. Through the bight, pass the tail end. 
    4. To tighten the knot, pull each strand. 

    The Follow-Through Knot (ABOK #1047) of Figure 8

    Despite the appearance of two figure eights in this knot, it should not be confused with the Double Loop Figure Eight Knot (ABOK #1085).

    promoknotsjpg | Figure 8 Knot: 6 Variations And Their Uses For Climbing

    A list of alternative names

    • Rewoven Figure 8 
    • Rethreaded Figure 8 
    • Figure 8 Retraced

    Figure 8 Follow Through Knot Uses 

    • Figure 8 Follow Through Knots are loop knots. It is commonly used for tying ropes to harnesses when climbing or belaying.

    The advantages and disadvantages of a figure eight follow-through knot 

    AdvantagesDisadvantages 
    – Simple to learn.
    – The knot can be easily checked to ensure it is tied correctly.
    – Won’t come undone during use.
    – Ties are difficult to untie after heavy loading. 
    – Cannot be tied with just one hand. 

    Figure 8 Follow Through Knot Alternatives

    • The Double Bowline (ABOK #1013) is another tie in knot. The tie can be tied quickly and even with one hand. However, it is harder to learn and requires a stopper knot to prevent it from unraveling use and it is easier to untie even after heavy loading.

    The Step-by-Step Guide To Tying A Figure 8 Follow Through Knot

    1. After tying the knot to your harness, the climber needs to ensure that you have at least six inches (15 cm) of rope at the tail end.
    2. Take one end of the rope in your right hand to ensure this and then extend your right arm out to the side. Measure the rope from your right hand to your left shoulder with your left hand.
    3. A bight should be formed at the part of the rope nearest your left shoulder.
    4. Just below the bight, hold the 2 strands of rope together.
    5. To form a loop, twist the bight once so that the standing end of the rope is over the working end and once you have the working end over the standing end, twist it again.
    6. The tail end of the rope should be passed from the loop.
    7. Pull both rope ends tightly together. Knots that resemble the number 8 should be visible.
    8. Through the lower tie in point on your harness, pass the tail end of the rope. From the bottom, the tail end should pass through and climb up (towards your face).
    9. The tail end of your harness should then be threaded through your high tie buckle. The Figure 8 Knot should be tucked in close to the lower tie-in point.
    10. In order for the tail end to enter the Figure 8 knot, it must pass through both tie-in points. Retrace Figure 8 from the beginning. From start to finish, the strands should run parallel to each other.
    11. Tighten the knot by pulling on each strand.
    12. Make sure you have at least six inches (15 cm) of rope at the tail end.

    The Loop Knot (ABOK #1047) in Figure 8

    The Figure 8 Loop Knot is essentially the same knot as the Figure 8 Follow Through Knot. Figure 8 Follow Through Knots are tied into harnesses, while Figure 8 Loop Knots are simply tied to form a loop. Tieing it is much easier. 

    A list of alternative names 

    • Figure 8 On A Bight
    • Flemish Loop
    • Flemish 8

    Figure 8 Loop Knot Applications

    • Figure 8 Loop Knots are loop knots. An anchor is secured by tying a knot in the rope to form a loop in the rope. 
    • The knot can also be used when a heavy load needs to be secured on a rope. 
    • Alternatively, you can wrap a rope around your freight for hauling. 

    Advantages And Disadvantages Of A Figure 8 Loop Knot 

    AdvantagesDisadvantages 
    -Simple to learn.
    -It is easy to check if the knot is tied correctly.
    – Will not unravel when used.
    After heavy loading, the ties are difficult to untie. 

    Figure 8 Loop Knot Alternatives

    • It can also be used to form a secure loop in the middle of the knot (ABOK #331, #532, #1053). The middle loading point spreads the load very effectively between the 2 ends. Additionally, it is easier to untie. Although a difficult knot to learn and tying on thicker ropes can be challenging, it is a good knot for beginners. 

    A Step-by-Step Guide To Tying A Figure 8 Loop Knot

    You tie it in the same way you would a simple Figure 8 Knot.

    1. Make a bight in the rope.
    2. Make a loop by crossing the straight end over the standing strands.
    3. Reverse the rope by bringing the straight end under the standing end and back up on the other side.
    4. Pass the straight end through the loop. 
    5. Make sure both strands of the knot run parallel to each other throughout. 
    6. Tighten each strand to form a knot. 

    Figure 8 Double Loop Knot (ABOK #1085)

    Alternative Names 

    • Double Figure 8 
    • Double Flemish Loop
    • Bunny Ears 
    • Dog-eared Loop 

    Double Loop Figure 8 Knot Applications 

    • Double Loop Figure 8 Knots are loop knots. Figure 8 Loop Knot: this is a stronger version of Figure 8 Loop Knot.
    • In the middle of a rope, the double loops provide a very secure anchor point for belaying.
    • You can also hook the two loops together to form two anchors. 

    Advantages And Disadvantages Of A Double Loop Figure 8 Knot

    AdvantagesDisadvantages 
    – Compared to other double loop knots, the loop is more stable and unlikely to slip.The failure of 1 anchor point can have a sudden impact on the other anchor point when using the 2 loops to hook into 2 separate anchor points. A second anchor point can be affected as well. 

    Knots That Are Alternatives To A Double Loop Figure 8

    • This is a good alternative to the Double Alpine Butterfly Loop but it is more difficult to learn.

    A Step-by-Step Guide For Tying A Double Loop Figure 8 Knot

    1. Make a bight in the rope. On the working side of the rope, you should have at least one arm’s length.
    2. With your left hand, hold the two strands of rope about 2 feet (60 cm) from the tail end.
    3. Under the standing end, pass the tight end, then come back up the other side.
    4. Don’t pass the straight end through the loop like a typical Figure 8. The loop should be formed by creating another bight using the edge of the bight.
    5. Make a loop over the bight you just made using your original bight end. Bring this original knot end to the end of the knot. It should sit closer to the two loops. 

    (ABOK #1058) Figure 8 Directional Loop Knot

    A list of alternative names 

    • Inline Figure 8 Loop

    Figure 8 Directional Loop Knot Applications 

    • Figure 8 Directional Loop Knots are loop knots. Equipment is mainly hauled with it but the directional Figure 8 Knots can be tied along the rope and used as handholds.

    Advantages And Disadvantages Of A Figure 8 Directional Loop Knot 

    AdvantagesDisadvantages 
    – Simple to learn.
    – The knot can be tied quickly. 
    – The loop only accepts one direction of load. 
    When heavy loads are applied, the tie is hard to untie.

    Figure 8 Directional Loop Knot Alternatives

    • The Alpine Butterfly Loop (ABOK #331, #532, #1053) creates a loop that can be safely loaded both ways. Additionally, it is easier to untie. This knot is more difficult to learn and can be a challenge to tie on thicker ropes. 

    A Step-by-Step Guide to Tying a Figure 8 Directional Loop Knot

    1. Cross the working end of the rope over the standing end to form a loop.
    2. The rope section in the loop is used to tie the knot. You should make sure it is long enough (at least one foot/ 30 cm).
    3. Make the loop look like a long oval by compressing it.
    4. The loop should pass from under the standing end and back up on the other side.
    5. The loop end should be passed through the loop.
    6. Make sure both strands of the knot run parallel to each other throughout.
    7. To tighten the knot, pull on the loop and the two strands.
    8. Two strands of rope can be loaded at the same time. It is only possible to apply a load in one direction to the loop.

    (ABOK #1411) Figure 8 Bend

    A list of alternative names 

    • Flemish Bend 

    The uses of a figure eight bend

    • A Figure 8 Bend is used to join two ropes together.

    Advantages And Disadvantages Of A Figure 8 Bend

    AdvantagesDisadvantages 
    – Simple to tie.
    – It is really easy to check if the knot is tied correctly.
    – Even after loading, the ties are easy to untie.
    – May come undone during use. To prevent this, add a stopper knot after the knot on each side. 

    Alternatives to Figure 8 Bends

    There are several other knots that can be used to join ropes:

    • A double Fisherman’s Bend will work as well as a Figure 8 Bend, but will be more difficult to untie after heavy loads.
    • Zeppelin Bend: A better version of the Double Fisherman’s Bend. Although it’s more difficult to determine whether the tie is correctly tied.
    • The Alpine Butterfly Bend is a good alternative but is really hard to learn.
    • Flat overhand bends are easy to tie but not as reliable as bend knots.

    A Step-by-Step Guide To Tying A Figure 8 Bend

    Essentially the same knot found in the Figure 8 Follow Through Knot, except there are two ropes involved.

    1. Cross the tail end of the rope over the standing end to form a loop.
    2. Back up the other side of the rope by bringing the tail end back under the standing end.
    3. The tail end should be passed through the loop. 
    4. Figure 8 knots should be visible.
    5. The tail end of the other piece of rope should be held. 
    6. You should begin from the tail end side of the first rope in order to trace the original figure 8. 
    7. Make sure both strands of the knot run parallel to each other throughout. 
    8. To tighten the knot, pull each strand. 
    9. Make sure each strand of the rope has a tail of at least 1 foot (30 cm) to withstand heavy loads. Additionally, you can tie stopper knots on both sides for added security. 

    Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs):

    What are the 4 most useful figure 8 knot?

    To know about the 4 most useful figure 8 knots, you need to check this video!

    What is the Figure 8 knot used for climbing?

    Stopper knot are usually used for climbing. The figure-eight knot or figure-of-eight knot is a type of stopper knot and it is actually very much important in both sailing and rock climbing as a method of stopping the ropes from running out of retaining or belaying devices.

    Can Figure 8 knot slip?

    Yes, Figure 8 knot can get slipped at that time you have to retie them again.

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